This is a collection of stories, about surfing.
I am not a pro-surfer, nor am I an artistic filmmaker. I am not an outrageous surfing personality or a mellow soul searching free surfer. I am not a living surf legend, nor young upcoming talent. I possess something far more appealing, far more valuable and far more interesting – I am an average surfer who goes on surf-trips… sometimes. I know, mind-blown, right?
You must be thinking, this guy’s nuts, he’s lost his marbles, he’s barking mad – that’s not impressive. But that’s exactly the point. According to the International Surfing Association (ISA) roughly 23 million people around the world are surfers. Now think of how many are REALLY good, probably max about 500 thousand, now think of people who are VERY bad, maybe about 5 million (probably an overestimate, but still). That leaves about 17.5 million average surfers, and who’s representing us ehy! Who’s telling the tale of the average-working-man’s surf adventures. NO-ONE, No-one is!
At this point you are probably nodding along enthusiastically, starting to get angry, red-faced and sweaty. You may even be jumping up and down in your seat shouting at the screen, ‘YES, yes Tom, you are right!’, ‘Why do I always end up watching videos about stupid cliché surfers chatting rubbish, being either incredibly mellow, super cocky or quite thick, yet amazing at surfing. Why can’t I just see someone average, struggle to find waves on a surf trip, eventually get to their intended destination, surf some OK (or on occasion pumping) waves very averagely and then go home, is that too much to ask?!’
Well it was, until now…
(If you are as enthusiastic as I am about sharing these stories send us an email with your latest/ funniest/ most memorable/ most epic sesh or surf trip, we’ll see if it makes the cut and share it on our page *feel free to tell your story through whichever medium best suits.. this may be written/ images/ videos/ audio/dance (whatever) or a combination of all these)